DINING IN ELEGANCE

"Life itself is the proper binge."

                            

                                                - Julia Child

Over the course of the last few years I've written repeatedly about the experience of finding a cute little diner or burger stand or side-of-the-road eatery which is part of the fun of any road trip. Ditto when it comes to a more far-flung destination requiring air travel, it's still exciting to find that local joint, the local hangout where you can just sit back and absorb the atmosphere.

Which may have led to the misperception that we never "dine out" in the traditional and more expensive sense. As a foodie, small F in my case, it's a distinct pleasure to be able to afford the finer things in life such as a meal at the more high-end Restaurants, with a capital R.

Picasso, Las Vegas

In years gone by my wife and I have been fortunate to have visited and had dinner at the famous Tavern on the Green in Central Park before it closed. Likewise The Rainbow Room high atop Rockefeller Center. (I sincerely hope there's not a connection between our visits and the closure of such establishments.) In New Orleans we brunched at Brennan's, including, of course, the Bananas Foster au flambé.

In Seattle we've eaten at Michael Mina's RN74. In San Diego at DeMedici's in the Gaslamp. Las Vegas -- now a hotspot for fine dining -- we've been to Tom Colicchio's CRAFTSTEAK at the MGM; Bobby Flay's MESA Grill, as well as Spago, both at Caesars Palace; relaxed on the patio at Picasso overlooking the Bellagio's fountains; and eaten our fill of sushi at SushiSamba over at the Venetian.

Here in the LA area we've visited everything from the very famous Tam O'Shanter, to the late and lamented Brown Derby, to the ultra adventurous The Bazaar by Jose Andres at the SLS hotel in Beverly Hills.

Each of these, and many more, has been an experience. Some "old school" restaurants still exist, for an echo of how it used to be, while others are at the forefront of new cuisine. 

As anyone who reads this column regularly knows, one of my primary checkmarks for any experience has to be that it somehow reflects the locale. 

Sitting inside, does the place tell you where you are? 

Does it give you a sense of the local culture, community?

Is the restaurant in Las Vegas over-the-top enough to clue you in that you're in Vegas and not New York or Chicago? Is the cuisine locally-sourced or flown in from the wilds of Africa, directly to your table? Additionally, is the food good enough to deserve your dollars, or are they relying upon reputation or image or view to demand the premium -- simply because they're a part of the local firmament? 

Is the atmosphere one of fun and enjoyment, not a stuffy or trendy place bent more towards YOU being grateful for a table versus THEIR being grateful for your company? 

(I cannot stand restaurants that treat me as if I'm just damned lucky to be there. I live in MY world, in which THEY are privileged to have me and my party shower them with OUR money. If the host/hostess isn't happy to see me, I go elsewhere.) 

(That particular rule applies whether I'm in line at the local Souplantation or waiting for a table at New York's most recent culinary superstar. You may ask me to wait, but don't be arrogant about it -- I don't care how cool or busy you may be, appreciate that I walked in the door with a credit card in my wallet.)

I still think while traveling it's the out-of-the-way hangouts and locals' joints that are the more fun discoveries, but my wife and I do enjoy the occasional truly grand dinner -- and each, in their own way, is an experience which adds texture to the grand adventure. 

We can't afford to splurge often, but when we do it is going to be incredible.

Inn of the Anasazi in Santa Fe