SANTA FE, NM - THE CITY PARK IN THE OCTOBER COUNTRY

Have you noticed, when watching scary television shows and horror movies, how many times the unspeakable happens in the middle of city parks? It's in the October Country? 

I mean, who goes walking there after dark?

Shhhhh...was that someone in the bushes up ahead? Why don't we just have a seat and wait.

SANTA FE, NM - MUSEUM OF THE HEART

Unlike a lot of the images I post here, this one caught my eye solely because of what another artist was attempting to convey in their work. To me, this represents the heart as the controlling influence of mankind. I may be wrong, but I'd like to believe that's true.

These pillars adorn the eastern entrance to Santa Fe's IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts (MoCNA)

SANTA FE, NM - CHOCOLAAAATE!

Our friends Jim and Glenda survey the options at The Chocolate Smith, the first of seven chocolate destinations on the Santa Fe Chocolate Trail.

The Santa Fe Chocolate Trail features seven different artisan approaches to the art of chocolate, ranging from fantastic ice cream (at Kakawa Chocolate House) to the European approach to chocolate at C.H. Higgins. With wonderful little flavors of the southwest thrown in. 

A vacation quest worth its weight in chocolate.

Along the Scenic Route(s)

"George felt the Piranha surge forward, the big reliable stirling engine recycling the hot air for more and more efficient thrust."

          - Harlan Ellison, Along the Scenic Route



In 1969, writer Harlan Ellison -- a man I am privileged to call a friend -- wrote a short story entitled ALONG THE SCENIC ROUTE. The core setup of the piece was that driving had become, under the right circumstances, a blood sport. In the story, set in the near future, the main character, a middle aged man, is drawn into a challenge with a snot-nosed youth in a hopped up power car not too dissimilar to the then popular Muscle Cars such as the Mustang, Camaro or Firebird.

In many ways, this 1970s fantasy has solidified itself into part of our collective culture, with Road Rage and other forms of insanity peppering our daily commute as well as impacting, usually negatively, plans we have for travel time. (Recently a trip to San Diego was canceled because my wife and I got thirty miles down a hundred mile drive, hitting excessive holiday traffic enhanced by a distant car accident, turning our expected hour and a half total drive into a three hour marathon just to get from where we were, to where we wanted to be. After a quick discussion, we pulled off, called the friends we'd expected to join -- letting them know not to expect us -- and found ourselves a much quieter (and closer) pocket of Southern California to explore.)

Harlan's story has a resonance for any of us who spend a good deal of time on the road. Roughly half my regular trips involve a road element of some kind that transcends the usual commute between airport, hotel and destination. In many cases, I deliberately book an Open Jaw flight to enable me to drive between sites, particularly when those areas are close enough that the inconvenience of the airport far outweighs some time spent on the road.

So it stands to reason that anyone who spends quite a bit of time behind the wheel would look to find ways to enliven the drive without resorting to violence. I, personally and to borrow Harlan's title, prefer The Scenic Route.

When I'm faced with getting from Point A, let's say Portland, and Point B, Seattle, the obvious choice would be to drive directly up along Interstate 5. It's a two and a half hour drive if the weather and other drivers don't get in your way, and is through some lovely country. No doubt. And certainly at the time span it's preferable to checking in a Portland Airport well before a flight, then waiting in line and fetching your luggage at the far end (whether it's from the overhead bin or baggage claim, you still have to go through TSA checkpoints and drag the stuff along with you).

So I opt for the road. Recent trips have taken me down highway 180 between El Paso and Carlsbad, New Mexico. From Reno to San Francisco along Interstate 80. Ambling through the Tonto National Forest on the aptly-named Apache Trail Road. Through the North Dakota and Minnesota countrysides. And the aforementioned Portland to Seattle trek.

And whenever the option offers itself -- and provided it doesn't add extensively to my time on the road -- I will look for something other than an interstate, preferring instead the more intimate and carefree time on a highway or or more local drive.

Sometimes there simply are not other options. Essentially the ONLY route between Reno and San. Francisco is the Interstate, unless you side-trip through Lake Tahoe, which adds more than an hour to the already five hour drive. Not that it isn't gorgeous, because it is. But again you must weigh the impact it will have on the overall trip.

The fun of a road trip is to see the world from ground level. The problem with doing that on an Interstate is that the flies by at 60-70 miles per hour, is largely populated with chains and shopping malls, and can suddenly descend into a commuters' Hell if a single semi pirouettes itself into the guard rail.

Given that most people bypass the highway and go straight to the Interstate, driving by highway or local road can often be a relaxing and fascinating experience, and certainly allows the driver to participate in the areas they pass through. Stop at a local diner for lunch. Drive through beautiful countryside and actually pay attention to the scenery around you. Bypass the insanity of the other drivers and rediscover in many cases a more leisurely and rewarding environment, not dedicated to simply getting to Point B, but enjoying the journey along the way.

Yeah. It might take a little longer. But if it's not too much more you may arrive at Point B in a better frame of mind, refreshed and relaxed, and certainly the better for having seen a world the Interstate commuter might have simply passed without a thought beyond getting to the next mile marker.

As for me, you'll often find me

ALONG THE SCENIC ROUTE.

(All quotes from Harlan Ellison used with the permission and copyright of the author.)

Packed Up and On the Road!

"Life is either a great adventure or nothing."  
                                       Helen Keller 

Okay, I've been remiss. I admit it. I owe you at least two blog posts I've been threatening to put up for the last two weeks. Yeah, yeah, life goes on.

Just a handful of things and I'll get round to it. I AM busy having a good time and documenting it visually. If you're not already doing so, follow me on Twitter for the most current up-to-date adventures and posts. @stevebarber_tt 

(continued below)

High above Los Angeles

Landing at SFO

Many martinis

The Southwestern sky

Offroad safari in Sedona

These last two months have seen a marked increase in my travels, which is gladly accepted and appreciated. Sand Diego, Del Mar, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Palm Springs, Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Phoenix and Tucson, just to name a few. Yes, it's heavily Southwestern, but any time on the road or in new lands is a good thing.

I "discovered", for instance, Albuquerque's reverence for its Route 66 past. There are several sections of the city which are breathing new life into the strips of hotels, motels and formerly cheap diners which marked the roadway's life during first half of the 20th century. Likewise I was drawn to find chocolate in the small New Mexican art town of Madrid (MADrid, for you tourists). The shop is appropriately owned by a man named Harvey Shugarman. 

Of course it is.

So.

In the next two weeks we're heading up to the Morro Bay area of California for a weekend of wine tasting and general falderal, and my work will take me to Las Vegas and Phoenix....and possibly El Paso if the wind blows just right. My little red car is getting quite the workout these days!

So to keep you interested and coming back, here are a handful of shots from the adventures year to date. Stay tuned. More chocolate, pictures and falderal to come.

Aloft over Albuqerque

Rock climbing in Red Rock Park

Cho-co-late!!!

Sopapillas in Santa Fe

Truck stop (and terrific huevos rancheros!)

Sedona's Church of the Red Rocks

VEGASSS!!!

Joshua Tree Nat'l Park

Sunset in Malibu

Aboard the Midway in San Diego

Disneyland and California Adventure!

Another Day, Another Adventure! (UPDATED)

"Well! Well! Well!... This is wonderful. No one told me it was like this!" 

- Georgia O'Keeffe

*********

UPDATE May 20th: 

I don't usually post an update so quickly after a column, but this was too good not to pass along. Got an email from Chuck Higgins with some terrific news: 

"As an interesting footnote since you were here, C.G. Higgins will be opening an additional downtown location, just a half block NORTH of the Historic, Santa Fe Plaza at 130 Lincoln Avenue. We will be adding fresh, chocolate dipped strawberries and our signature caramel apples.

The plan is to be open around mid June, 2013." 

(Mmmmmm, strawberries AND caramel apples.  Just a month away and within an easy walk of the Plaza. Thanks for the news, Chuck, and congrats to everyone at CG Higgins!)

(Now, about that sopapilla corn...)

*********

The indication of any good trip is the wish, once you're safely home again, that you were still out there, on the road. That a week or so afterward you're longing for the next time. 

Aloft over Albuquerque

We've all been on voyages that no matter how good they begin, towards the end of them we begin to look forward to getting home. This doesn't mean they're not great trips, it just means that we've done enough for now are looking for our normal lives to resume. For some people this is a week. For others it could be months. (And in some extreme cases, it may be years. Or a lifetime.)

And so it was that the timing for our brief spin around the American Southwest was perfect. (The collective noun includes my wife and for a good portion of the trip our friends Jim and Glenda. You'll remember Jim from a couple of blogged trips into the California desert -- he's the man cooly leaning up against my red car in the Mojave, and mentioned in my drive through the Joshua Tree National Park.)

In the short span of a week plus two days we covered some 2300 miles, stayed in three different towns, visited a half-dozen more and had a solid handful of lifetime experiences -- two of which served as checkmarks on our respective Lists for Life. The adventures ranged from the grand: a flight over downtown Albuquerque in a hot air balloon; to the pedestrian: a walk around the famous Santa Fe Square. From the brutally punishing: an off-road drive through the red rocks of Arizona (which I will blog about in the future, but a video excerpt of which can be found here); to the serene: massages at the Body Bliss shop in downtown Sedona. From the ridiculous(ly fun) to the sublime.

And the food? Crazy, man, crazy.

Inn of the Anasazi

The premiere meal was hands-down at the Inn of the Anasazi in Santa Fe. An utterly brilliant evening of wonderful and eclectic cuisine -- Jim had elk, while I dined on rabbit. Our ladies went for more sensible and yet still wonderfully tasty entrees. The mood, the wine, the food and the service were all first-rate, as one might expect for an establishment documented as one of the 'THOUSAND PLACES TO SEE BEFORE YOU DIE. Or eat at. Whatever. But truly a stupendous evening.

Also on the culinary list have to be The Dragonfly Cafe in in Taos. This little gem of a place has both an eclectic menu and truly spectacular flavors. It's a very homey, comfortable setting, and you feel a bit like you're visiting a local hole in the wall where everyone knows everyone else and it's more of a hangout with great food than a formal restaurant. And that may be exactly what we were lucky enough to stumble upon.

Dragonfly Cafe

A speaking of stumbling, any mention of food invariable has to connect to wine. On the road to Taos we quite literally braked hard and stopped at the Vivac winery tasting room off highway 68. I admit to being a bit of a California wine snob (with nods of respect towards Oregon, Washington, New York and Virginia), but New Mexico wasn't on my list of producers. Vivac has changed my minds -- the wines we tasted were uniformly very good and several were excellent. If you're open to education and change on your voyages, some wonderful discoveries can be made.

Another surprise, which I blogged about last week, was the Santa Fe Chocolate Trail. 

Now, I don't know if it was noticeable in the Chocolate Trail blog, but my favorite of the confectionary shops was undoubtedly CG Higgins. 

Chuck Higgins of CG Higgins

Not only were the chocolates and other treats world class, but the people and warmth of the operation really got to all of us. Chuck Higgins, the "C" in CG, was there and spent a good deal of time talking to us, sharing the ideas and philosophy of his approach, the suggestions he had for what were their best treats (with so many, it was great to have someone pointing at the "must try"s). 

Chuck's enthusiasm is infectious, and his staff were every bit reflecting this -- at the end of our visit we were pulled into the kitchen by one of his assistants to see the mixing of a batch of caramel for the caramel corn which is very much a signature staple for CG Higgins. We left with a terrific experience, full tummies, full bags and a full set of memories of their shop. Highly, highly, recommended. (Tell them the Thumbnail Traveler sent you. Won't get you anywhere, but this way Chuck can blame someone else.)

Sopapillas!!!!

And on and on. The discovery of sopapillas, which are wonderful little fried bread pockets which are doused in confectioner's sugar and honey. Just amazing flavors, and a dish that set off a bit of a regular hunt for "the best". I think our votes went collectively to the Plaza Cafe in Santa Fe, but each and every place we tried them it was delicious. 

(Hey, Chuck!! Any chance of a sopapilla-flavored candy corn? Just asking...)

Over the next few weeks I'll be posting memories and thoughts regarding this last trip. It's one which leaves us with that desire to be back, to have stayed a little longer. Each of the places visited on this voyage left us with that special desire to return, to continue to experience Santa Fe, Sedona, Taos, and parts in between and around. From three thousand feet above Albuquerque to a massage in Sedona, this one makes us long for more.

And, as I noted, that's the mark of a great adventure.



http://vivacwinery.com/
http://www.cghiggins.com/
http://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/innoftheanasazi/dining/the_anasazi_restaurant/
http://www.dragonflytaos.com/

Sunset in the Southwest

Riding the Chocolate Trail

“Nine out of ten people like chocolate. The tenth is lying.” 
                                (Graffiti scrawled on a wall )





The best part of any journey is the discovery of the unexpected. The good unexpected, to be specific. (I had a momentary image of a flat tire on Route 666 on a hot August day some fifteen miles out in the desert with no tow trucks in sight...unexpected, and certainly not the best part of the journey.)

Often times, our travels take on a culinary edge. The local flavors and ingredients can deepen your relationship with a destination as almost nothing else can do.

C.G. Higgins

Southwestern cuisine, with its exotic herbs, chiles and spices, is a wonderful mix of Mexican, American and Native American combinations. A wonderful taste of a regional wine, unexpectedly flavorful and worthy of standing beside its Napa cousins. A nip of a pickled cactus. The best nachos this side of Laredo. The discovery of sopapillas and the incredible taste they have with a drizzle of honey as their only condiment. These are the sorts of things which are true and enduring pleasures of what, at its best, can be called "New Mexican" cooking.

But that was to be expected in many ways. New Mexican foods are well known in the restaurant world, and are often calling cards in and of themselves.

And, as I started out this column I noted that it was the unexpected which can be the greatest reward for a traveler with an open mind. Or palate. Or both.

The Chocolate Smith

Kakawa

When I say "chocolate tourism", a large number of destinations come to mind. Chocolatiers from numerous places around the globe often lay claim to producing the best, the richest, the most sensual confections known to man or woman. Zurich, Switzerland. Brussels, Belgium. Paris, of course. (In fact, the argument -- for there is no discussion -- of whether it is the Swiss, Belgian or French chocolates that are the best has raged and will continue to rage for centuries.) Germany. Britain. Our own Hershey, Pennsylvania -- love or hate American chocolate, it's a destination. South and Central America, home of the cacao bean itself.

So when I say "chocolate" chances are remote you would respond with "Santa Fe, New Mexico". And you'd be wrong.

Todos Santos

Santa Fe, perhaps more than any equitably-sized city, can honestly lay claim to some of the finest boutique chocolate houses in the U.S. So much so that one of the most highly recommended activities -- perhaps spanning a couple of days to avoid the risk of a tummy ache -- is the locally created and presented "Chocolate Trail" which features the work of four distinct and terrific chocolatiers. Each of them approaches the subject from a different perspective and philosophy, allowing the casual visitor to taste classic, historic and innovative flavors without wandering more than a mile from one end to the other (use a car, however. Santa Fe is imminently walkable, but you will want a way to transport all of your hard-won treasures before they melt).

And true to the region, each of the four chocolatiers emphasizes local ingredients and flavors in their concoctions, enabling them to present truly unique treats for the casual chocoholic and connoisseur alike.

C.G. Higgins Confections – "Welcome to C.G. Higgins, a boutique chocolatier, candymaker, and the home of Chuck's Nuts Originals. We hand-make fine chocolate truffles, caramel corn, and many types of nut brittle, most recently featured on the Food Network's "Road Tasted" with the Neelys. Also known for our specialty fudge, C.G Higgins incorporates local flavors of the New Mexico including red and green chiles." 

Handcrafted

The two-part tasting room and cafe is warm and inviting, as are the staff and Chuck Higgins himself. He took the time to explain the history of his company, his love of the confection business, and a bit of background on the whole Chocolate Trail idea. Chuck got into the business through the sale of his homemade fudge,  classic truffles, and caramel corn -- which remain a staple of his business along with a large assortment of delicious brittles. He mixes local ingredients to create such flavors as chile peanut brittle and lavender pecan brittle, lavender caramel corn, and a completely natural fudge that is creamy and tastier than most varieties -- the flavors are more subtle and textured rather than the one-note fudge you may be used to eating..

CG Higgins is easily visible from highway 285 (St Francis Drive) just north of Cerillos. 

847 Ninita St. (at St. Francis) 505-820-1315.  www.cghiggins.com

Kakawa Chocolate House – Kakawa isn't your usual chocolate shop either. They are dedicated to preserving the true historic flavors of chocolate drinks and creations such as chile chocolate ice cream and dark chocolate candies. 

We are a specialty chocolate company located in the beautiful high desert town of Santa Fe, New Mexico. Our passion is authentic and historic drinking chocolates. Historic drinking chocolates include traditional Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican Mayan Aztec drinking chocolates; 1600's European drinking chocolates, Colonial American and Colonial Mexican drinking chocolates. Kakawa Chocolate House drinking chocolates are representative of these historic recipes and span the time period 1000 BC to the mid-1900s AD.

Relax and indulge

The flavors are truly unique, and some of them will surprise you with their flavors -- this is not for the Hershey's crowd, this is for the adventurous palate delving into the crafted original tastes and sensations of hundreds of years before factory production created instant hot chocolate. The tasting is part of the fun of visiting Kakawa, and you will find the people behind the counter helpful and well-versed in the subject. As with CG Higgins, there is a small cafe area in which you can sit down with your choice and sip to your heart's content.

1050 Paseo de Peralta  505-982-0388.  www.kakawachocolates.com.  

Yum!

The Chocolate Smith – The Chocolate Smith is perhaps the most traditional of chocolatiers on the Chocolate Trail, but don't let the appearance fool you. The flavors and creations here are as authentically Santa Fe as as any of the other three houses. Dark chocolate flavors, some with a healthy red or green chili kick, greet you as you enter the store. Take a moment to peruse the room and see all of the various products and services they offer, then wander the few feet to the main counter and check out the options.

Gourmet dark chocolate by The Chocolate Smith is made by hand using a bittersweet blend of dark chocolate and premium, fresh, local, and organic ingredients. Indulge in timeless chocolate classics or explore contemporary twists and regional flairs. Whichever your preference, be ready for an over-the-top chocolate experience.

They specialize in barks (the dark chocolate chili bark is amazing and genuinely spicy), caramels, bon bons and candy-covered nuts.

851-A Cerillos Road.  505-473-2111.  www.chocolatesmith.com.

Todos Santos Chocolates and Confections - Todos Santos is perhaps the most eclectic of the group, with a variety of candies that range from marshmallow sticks through to delicious hand-crafted chocolate treats. They cater to a higher-end clientele and seem to do a brisk business in candy catering.

Todos Santos carries housemade creations including truffles, toffee and gold or silver leaf covered chocolate milagros as well as eclectic confections from around the world.

Choices, choices...

Todos Santos

The flavors are as fabulous as those at the other establishments, with a premium presentation and approach. The shop is small, but packed with a variety of treats, many centered around the Dia De Los Muertos theme common to the Southwest and Mexico. A bit difficult to track down compared to the other three, but certainly worth a visit. Within an easy walk to the Basilica St Francis ad the famous Plaza Santa Fe.

Todos Santos is hidden away In the Sena Plaza Courtyard at 125 E. Palace #31 in Santa Fe.  505-982-3855. (Unfortunately no website available for ordering)

The Santa Fe Chocolate Trail. Expect the unexpected and Happy hunting!!!

Dreaming of Sweets the Santa Fe Chocolate Trail style!