CHURCHILL, CANADA - ALERT ON THE TUNDRA

An arctic fox cavorts around the tires of the Tundra Buggy, keeping a watchful eye on the horizon for any of the larger predators which lurk on the tundra.

LAS VEGAS LION HABITAT RANCH

I have been visiting and enjoying Las Vegas for three decades now, as I mentioned in the previous column in which we named The Best Martini in Las Vegas, as well as the Best Place to Sit & Sip. So it's always a delight when I find something new to occupy my time.

A few years back the MGM Grand hotel featured a large enclosure with lions -- the company "mascot" dating back to the early film days before the hotel company was spun off. It was a rather spectacular complex with waterfalls and large rocky areas for the lions (and handlers) to scramble and play. Through the center and under this ran a plexiglass tunnel so that visitors could quite literally see the lions from all angles. It was quite the exhibit and attracted tens of thousands of people a month to the MGM complex.

Unfortunately, making the rather dubious decision the hotel would be better served with yet another nightclub, the exhibit was closed and removed, leaving the lions off the payroll. (Disclaimer: I own a negligible number of shares in MGM. Just sayin'.)

What was an unknown to much of the public was the fate of these beautiful beasts, and their handlers.

For several years now I have known of the existence of the Lion Habitat Ranch, a complex at the most southern end of Paradise Valley (the valley Las Vegas inhabits) in Henderson. But until a few weeks ago, and despite repeated suggestions by my wife, we had never made the time nor had the opportunity to visit.

A serious error on our part, and a serious error for anyone who considers themselves an animal lover and particularly having a fondness for the great cats.

Founded by Keith Evans, the ranch was founded in 1989, and began supplying lions to the MGM under a contract which ended in 2012. Since that time the ranch has supported itself through fundraising, admissions and sales of merchandise.

The Habitat is a pretty basic affair. Obviously they use the money to care for the animals rather than build fancy cages or a more modern zoological park. The cages are large and basic, with (thick) chain link being all that separates them from their handlers and the public.  The handlers and volunteers are present to answer any questions and want visitors about standing too close to the cage when of the males turns his back (The males are territorial and spray with some frequency. If you do not move quickly enough you may be marked as his property, and it's a long way to a shower.)

(The general advice is when you see an employee move, move with them.)

The lions are clearly well cared for, and cared about. The Habitat protects 46 lions, a handful of birds of varying species and one giraffe, Ozzie, the painting giraffe. (Apparently Ozzie is the only one of the animals required to pay his own way, which he does with a gentle and artistic flair.)

This is a much more up-close and personal experience than simply viewing the cats at a zoo enclosure. It's very much interactive and enjoyable for the visitor, and the cats are happy and healthy.  Given the number of males present one thing you will likely experience here and not elsewhere is the hug-huffing and territorial roaring of the males. It becomes a chorus of four or five of them, all sounding off simultaneously. You likely won't get a chance to hear this sort of thing at the local zoo, and it's an impressive moment (this video gives you a taste).

While visiting a zoological facility might not be the first thing you think of in Las Vegas, The Lion Habitat is an excellent option for those afternoons when you're looking to escape the casino and perhaps see something else around town. And if you're a local and haven't visited, get over there immediately. Its a true Las Vegas treasure and needs your support.

The ranch is located a mile or so off Interstate 15, not too far from the M Resort.

THE LION HABITAT RANCH
382 Bruner Ave
Henderson, NV 89044

ROAD TRIP: Safari West

"In wilderness is the preservation of the world."
                                   - Henry David Thoreau                          





The phrase "well kept secret" is one of those two-edged swords. On one hand it connotes that it's somehow something special and something that deserves attention. On the other hand, "secret" isn't exactly an ambition for most of the people who are promoting a thing.

So it is with all due respect and admiration that I refer to Safari West complex outside Santa Rosa, in northern California, as a well-kept secret. It is deserving of as much attention as other facilities of its kind, but as a traveler and seeker of adventure I like the fact that it isn't overrun with tourists and daytrippers who are looking for nothing more than cotton candy and animals in cages.


First, few of the animal...well, wait. I'm getting ahead of myself.

Safari West, nicknamed the Sonoma Serengeti, is a large wildlife park located in the hills between Calistoga and Santa Rosa, neatly positioned between the twin wine regions of Sonoma and Napa. It is a research complex which funds a lot of their work through tours and safari-tent overnights on the grounds.

Taking their own description off their web page:

"Safari West serves two important functions: first and foremost, we are a wildlife preserve, with several important ongoing projects such as:

• The propagation of endangered species. Safari West is the home of zebras, giraffes, cheetahs and many more exotic creatures.
• Under the directorship of Nancy Lang, Safari West is breeding several endangered bird species.
• Several Research and Conservation programs are ongoing: Conservation through Education.

But Safari West is more than a preserve. We are dedicated to raising awareness of our exotic neighbors and promoting understanding through in-person contact. That's why we offer safaris year-round. If your only experience with a zebra or giraffe has been at a zoo, you should see these beautiful animals in their natural habitat. You owe it to yourself, and to them."

And therein lies the key difference between a zoo and Safari West, and that is the experience of visiting an operating preserve, and touring through open-meadow grasslands and semi-rugged terrain visiting truly wild animals in what passes for a natural environment for them.

The park itself is some 400 acres, with more than 900 different animals (everything from large secretary birds to predatory cats to giraffes and zebras).

Again, their words:

"Come through our gate and be transported into an exotic, new world. A captivating tapestry of raw sounds and earthy smells; a magic place with the sights and sounds of the Serengeti where the air is filled with melodious chirps from the aviary, squawking calls from gregarious parrots, and a occasional lemur screech. An African style oasis where guests experience a rare sense of freedom and gain renewed inspiration. "

A couple of the cabin-tents at night.

So the park is unique and fascinating, but the best adventure of all, particularly for younger ones, is a night or two inn the relative comfort of your own luxury safari tent. The accommodations are excellent, with a comfortable bed and good sized room -- the only drawback during our stay was a midnight call to the bathroom, which is located outside of the very cozy center part of the tent. This also made the shower a bit of a cold versus warm challenge requiring a swift drying off and dash through the canvas door back into the warm main room of the tent. (The bathroom is attached and completely enclosed, but outside of the area well-heated by a space heater.) If you're going during the off season be prepared for this very little bit of roughing it.

The tour itself, on board a safari vehicle, is excellent. The driver conveys a lot of good information about the animals without becoming overly academic. If you're tempted to sit on the upper deck just be aware that giraffes drool. A lot. One poor visitor didn't wear her raincoat and the sounds from the upper deck (we were seated below) were cringe-inducing in a Monty Python sort of way.

The tour lasts three hours, and is certainly worth the side trip if you're electing to stay in either Santa Rosa or Calistoga. But, again, our own selection was to stay the night, enjoying the ambience of the park. The sounds of the animals as you drift asleep is exciting and relaxing at the same time.

 (CAVEAT: If you're prone to nightmares, be aware the secretary birds screech out something awful, particularly in the dark when you're not expecting to hear anything but silence. One let loose with a banshee-esque shriek directly across from our cabin door at around 2am, which left me crawling the ceiling until I was able to piece together what I'd heard. A few too many horror films as a kid, I guess.)

On to the rest of the photos. Contact info for Safari West will be found towards the bottom.

The giraffe compound was directly opposite our door

Our tent/cabin

Inside the tent, a comfortable bed

Links: 
http://www.safariwest.com/
http://www.safariwest.com/faqs/

Relaxing the California sun